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Vintage Twin » Recent Posts http://vintagetwin.com/ This site is to help builders get their collection of parts on the road. We support replica parts good and bad. If there's a bad repop part out there, we want to either fix it or warn you to stay away from it. en-US Wed, 22 Feb 2012 18:08:26 +0000 http://bbpress.org/?v=1.0.3 <![CDATA[Search]]> q http://vintagetwin.com/search.php Plumber on "Tap & Dril Number Chart" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=169#post-378 Tue, 21 Feb 2012 17:46:54 +0000 Plumber 378@http://vintagetwin.com/  Know before you tap: • <a href="http://www.chilipepperapp.com/tap_drill_chart.htm" rel="nofollow">http://www.chilipepperapp.com/tap_drill_chart.htm</a> Plumber on "Manifold Pressure Tester - Review" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=167#post-376 Mon, 20 Feb 2012 20:49:08 +0000 Plumber 376@http://vintagetwin.com/ <div>Nobody ever expects to get bubbles.</div> <div>But if you are using exhaust clamps with 1/4" bolts instead of manifold clamps with #10 screws, I expect you to. </div> <div> </div> <div>I suggest starting over on the manifold installation, and inking and grinding its flange to be certain it is still flat as well. (They rarely are.) Usually the phenolic spacer could use dressing as well.</div> <div> </div> <div>Watching the bubbles while you tighten the clamps will help prevent over-tightening. The design is designed to "float", with the support bracket holding the carburetor. - Cotten </div> <div> </div> [attachment=376,791] At (4) p.s.i  bubbles started showing up, from the top screw holes (but these aren't shank screws, so they don't have the semi-sealing benefit). The band clamps, I was warned, would leak. The seals are n.o.s James, but the manifold could be warped as it's 35 yrs. old. New manifold and clamps are needed (OE style) #10 screw type is what Cotten suggested), but I want to test the V-Twin 360-degree pressure Power clamps 35-0415 (with floating bridge), which arrive Friday. [attachment=376,792] [attachment=376,793] [attachment=376,794]• Found this "ding" [that has an "inbound slant resulting from a fury-removal"] sometimes seen with wedged & pried steel manifolds. The nick has a bead-blasted crevice appearance. It wasn't from the current aluminum manifold removal. The tip end of the gouge is not within the sealing margin for the O-ring, and this right-side of the manifold was not producing bubbles. The left side of the manifold not only leaked at the seal, but there was gas/soot coating the entire intake chamber inside the front head, not like the rear intake chamber which was gas-rinsed- clean. Maintaining a constant 4 psi air source and using Leak-Seek® <a href="http://hdsupplysolutions.com/shop/product-leak_seek_spray-150600" rel="nofollow">http://hdsupplysolutions.com/shop/product-leak_seek_spray-150600</a> ,   which continues to produce bubbles, allows thorough leak detection of the targeted D-ring area and time for bubbles to rise-up from the depths of mechanical depravity. While the air pressure was on, loosening the left manifold clamp a bit stopped the leak, but because of the age of the aluminum and unknown elliptical concentricity, the manifold is being replaced. The V-Twin paper gaskets were gas-soaked. Their two-tone (black&tan) gaskets from the "rebuild kits" (shown with the phenolic spacer), that also include non-needed 3-bolt gaskets as well, feel thinner than the standard black paper type. I ordered (4) from Kick-Start for comparison. • This 25 yr. old bottle of Indian Head goes on both sides of the phenolic insulator. • Note: Were the existing 1/4-20 threads changed to 5/16-18 (the same as OE), the length is the same. About 3/4". That would help in testing. The drill size to re-tap the threads to 5/16-18 is a 17/64. • The tester-flange will take a 17/64 bore, although the remaining wall will be thin, not a lot of compression will be put upon it. Aluminum cuts best at high-speed. WD-40 as a lube-feed. • Bad idea, the 1/4" hole (bottom right) is too close to the inner gasket edge to allow an up-tap. Just an idea for future applications though. We'll continue as is, but with the one side Indian Head shellac coated on both sides, dried and compressed. See chart: <a href="http://www.chilipepperapp.com/tap_drill_chart.htm" rel="nofollow">http://www.chilipepperapp.com/tap_drill_chart.htm</a> [attachment=376,795] [attachment=376,799] [attachment=376,800] Plumber on "Manifold Pressure Tester - Review" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=167#post-375 Sat, 18 Feb 2012 03:39:17 +0000 Plumber 375@http://vintagetwin.com/ The test-kit was purchased from Mbskeam some years back and never used until now. The black body Linkert is being removed for the Knuckle and the patina carb is going back on. While doing so, the manifold tester will be hooked up while a "known" tight assembly exist. If I get a leak down from a cylinder, then the flywheels will be turned until the valves are all closed. Bubbles will be what we're looking for and Leak Seek® is the carrier being used, which lays flat as a thin, non-corrosive film and won't stop bubbling. Water soluble. Stuff a beach towel under the carb to catch the drip. Pressurize to about 4 p.s.i. The Leak Seek® material is easy to use, but available only by the gallon through contractor's plumbing supply (not Home Depot), but bubble-makers are necessary, if you don't want to spray alot of liquid. • Make sure the towel wraps around the first cylinder fin on the left side. I hand tightened the Tester screws with a regular 1/2", 12-pt. socket. A hex/slot screw is easier to judge torque with a screwdriver. • [attachment=375,781] [attachment=375,782] [attachment=375,783] [attachment=375,784] [attachment=375,785] [attachment=375,786] [attachment=375,787] [attachment=375,788] [attachment=375,789] Plumber on "Points Change-Out (in frame)" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=166#post-374 Sat, 18 Feb 2012 02:57:54 +0000 Plumber 374@http://vintagetwin.com/ A slot-screwdriver cut off to 2-3/4" high that fits under the bottom fin for condenser screw removal. The flat top is J-B weld and allows for one finger pressure when tightening. Retard the timer to the max. for screw-head view. Points are from Kick-Start part # 0317 ('49-69) that are Dixie. Red plastic insulator and blued-metal spring. Plastic rider. Condenser is late-(32726-47) # 0329. No complaints on the points sets. • A tapered drift keeps the screw-hole aligned when closing the condenser bracket. Most condenser brackets are proprietary to the condenser. [attachment=374,775] [attachment=374,776] [attachment=374,777] [attachment=374,778] [attachment=374,779] Plumber on "LInkert M-74B • Re-Manufactured by Cotten" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=140#post-373 Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:01:11 +0000 Plumber 373@http://vintagetwin.com/ I forgot to install the throttle arm, so I had to remove the throttle lever in order to do so. "Position both throttle disc and throttle lever in wide-open position before tightening  throttle stop lock screw." - '59-69 Service Manual #1-5. The throttle disc can be held in a wide open position using a 1/2" roll of taped-over paper towel, since the throttle stop lock screw needs to be tightened standing on the left side of the bike. #6. When the throttle disc is closed, there should still be a bit of unseated disc fore and aft. #8. Bend the lock tab up some, but not all the way on the one facet of the screw head that would try to move counter-clockwise, saving the other tabs from being bent. #9. The hi-speed needle was silver solder coated as part of the restoration. Notice how narrow the open margin is around the end of the needle as it descends into the base. Runs a standard #19 fixed-jet. •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• The motor was hard to start at first. The lo-speed needle on the carb was set too rich and combustion was "pop,pop, pop, popping, until I turned the lo-speed needle in to lean the mixture. Overall the carb ran slightly better than the patina one. [attachment=373,765] [attachment=373,766] [attachment=373,767] [attachment=373,768] [attachment=373,769] [attachment=373,770] [attachment=373,771] [attachment=373,773] [attachment=373,797] [attachment=373,798] Plumber on "LInkert M-74B • Re-Manufactured by Cotten" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=140#post-372 Thu, 16 Feb 2012 23:59:07 +0000 Plumber 372@http://vintagetwin.com/ • The flange face gets milled flat. • A comparison of cast "humps" at the Lo-Speed needle. The black carb is from the 1956 era, the patina carb from who knows when. • Tighten the bowl nut to XX ft. lbs. • Por-15 coating on all pre-cad parts. • Whittle-tapered popsicle sticks align the gaskets for the top two carb screws. Install the carb with the bowl bracket attached. A 12-pt. deep socket has a thinner sidewall than an 8-point. Caution: Install the choke rod first, before installing the carburetor! • Support the carb body under the manifold with your hand. The (4) screws should turn easily into the body with no trace of thread-bind. A magnetic probe will assist in inserting the screws and getting them started. • The carb initially sets secure on the bracket. Popsicle sticks in place. Remove the top rear stick to insert the first screw from the left side of the bike. • The choke lever needs to be tilted so the rod is never bound and the bottom tank of the lever doesn't strike the manifold. [attachment=372,755] [attachment=372,756] [attachment=372,757] [attachment=372,758] [attachment=372,759] [attachment=372,760] [attachment=372,761] [attachment=372,762] [attachment=372,763] [attachment=372,764] Plumber on "LInkert M-74B • Re-Manufactured by Cotten" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=140#post-371 Thu, 16 Feb 2012 05:30:19 +0000 Plumber 371@http://vintagetwin.com/ Remove the carb and bracket, with the loosely tightened nut, as one-piece. [attachment=371,754] Plumber on "LInkert M-74B • Re-Manufactured by Cotten" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=140#post-370 Wed, 15 Feb 2012 05:40:41 +0000 Plumber 370@http://vintagetwin.com/ Steps to R & R the Linkert Carburetor: [attachment=370,743] [attachment=370,744] [attachment=370,745] [attachment=370,746] [attachment=370,747] [attachment=370,748] [attachment=370,749] 1. This is the result of a carb. dunk rebuild. Patina stays on the body. Once removed by blasting, the patina is gone forever. 2. The yellow dot is for sight locating of the L. speed needle's position. Salt air does a number on the knurled knobs. 3. Loosen the gas line flared nut. Drain the line into a cup, Remove the filter. The line probably has gas remaining in it like a soda-straw un-vented. 4. Support the carb. while the 9/16 support bracket nut is loosened. Leave the nut snug with the lock-washer engaged. 5. Remove the 1/2" choke lever nut and lever. 6. Loosen the 4 carb screws. 7. Loosen the wire block set-screw on the throttle lever. Remove the throttle cable. 8. The bottom screws are removed. The top screws and bottom bracket hold the carb, which allows the 4-screws to be removed without thread-stress on the flange manifold of the carb body. Remove the remaining top two screws. 9. Loosen the 1/2" nut with a deep socket. (A 12-pt. socket usually has a thinner socket wall. It's a tight fit getting past the top of the rear tappet block). 10. Balance a cup on the socket extension. Then tilt the carb forward so the bowl can spill from the intake adapter fitting into a cup. Keep the cup in position, when more gas empties from the carb when removed. [attachment=370,750] [attachment=370,751] [attachment=370,752] Plumber on "Axle-Cam • Asphalt Surfing w/ an FX (forward) Shifter Cam" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=149#post-369 Tue, 14 Feb 2012 17:26:45 +0000 Plumber 369@http://vintagetwin.com/ The points closed at the end of the ride, because the timer's eccentric screw was loose and would not support the backbone of the points base. Fixed the problem. Look for more from the AxleCam and Vintage Twin's editor Ricardo "one-kick" Campos. <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAFxXwhunMk&list=LLLdJ106xTstdinPUGpQTekA&feature=mh_lolz" rel="nofollow">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAFxXwhunMk&list=LLLdJ106xTstdinPUGpQTekA&feature=mh_lolz</a> ~ Four-minutes of flying-fun ~ Note: When the film starts off the editor allows us an early morning, black & white, not-so-hot-some kind of day, until the machine is put into 1st gear, then the color of the day begins. Plumber on "Meet Ted Doering" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=165#post-368 Tue, 14 Feb 2012 16:10:54 +0000 Plumber 368@http://vintagetwin.com/ Here's the guy that's made it all happen: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=PGTcbcu_N-0" rel="nofollow">http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=PGTcbcu_N-0</a> The 3.5 gallon, emblem mount welded gas tanks are OK. I'm using one on a customer's right-side tank while his OE tank gets a new fill-neck. The tanks could have been rounder on the sides. "Rounder" cost a lot more money to make. The adage "If they' make it correct, but costs 3 time's more, but made "replica-exact" we'd (the customer) pay for it! " - doesn't add up. You'd think it would, but it doesn't and never will from a motorcycle parts manufacturer's point of view. Good repop is where you find it - or modify it to make it work. We're all just glad to have the parts available (1936-1959), maybe the parts situation will get better. Understand though, I've been told by Tara the general manager, "There is no quality control. (in Taiwan or NY)." Plumber on "LInkert M-74B • Re-Manufactured by Cotten" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=140#post-367 Tue, 14 Feb 2012 00:21:34 +0000 Plumber 367@http://vintagetwin.com/ Arrived today, so let's unwrap it and see what the gouge was reduced to. Cotten thought this M-74B was, "..my '64 vintage guestiment applied to the bowl with its bottom facing and letter stamp; the hump on the body for a detente to the low speed needle indicates it is somewhere between '52 and '56, pending further clues from the fossil record". <div> </div>". [attachment=367,733] [attachment=367,734] [attachment=367,735] [attachment=367,736] [attachment=367,737] [attachment=367,738] [attachment=367,739] [attachment=367,740]• Professionally packed. • Restored to a condition that best represents Harley-Davidson's golden years. • Your old parts returned with an installation guide. •  Leaving the needles as set, the M-74B is being installed on the '57 Pan. • For the record, the bowl washer was returned with the gap towards the nut face and the smooth brass to the bowl. • With Liberty DuraFloat. • The gouge line can barely be seen. It was a close shave. 0.010" removed, but there's still see meat behind the slot-eye. All part of the flat-rate rebuild. History restored. [attachment=367,741] [attachment=367,742] Plumber on "Perfecting the 1957 OHV V-Twin® Replica Panhead" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=151#post-366 Thu, 09 Feb 2012 23:52:45 +0000 Plumber 366@http://vintagetwin.com/ The Pan has about 700 miles on it, so it's time to remove the primary cover and check the belt tracking (after I adjusted the transmission backwards on the left side) to resemble the shaft angles in Vol. 2,  page 72, Fig. D-4, middle photo - (except unlike the illustration, the motor shaft on the bike is fixed in a "squared-position" (never slanted), but the clutch was moved backwards on the left side as shown, after turning the transmission adjusting screw about a 1/2 (solid) turn C.C.W. to "release" the bind. The inner rails of the trans. plate wont allow the trans to "cock", so you'd be trying to pull the right side as well, if you tried to pull only the left side back. [attachment=366,724] [attachment=366,725] [attachment=366,726] [attachment=366,727] [attachment=366,728] [attachment=366,729]After 700 miles the belt shows some light wear on the both sides (oddly, was the belt tracking side to side), and only one spot on the inner primary that showed rub-wear (bottom pic) where black paint and yellow primer were removed (which could be the high spot of a bulging inner tin, except Kevin did the straightening and Kev's flat work is flat). The dust inside is powered-rubber. When wiped with a paper towel, there was very little oil (see flip side of the fuzzy-black side). There's 1/4" of outside pulley exposed, but there's 3/16" of air-space between the belt and the inner primary. A popsicle stick is 1/8" thick. There are 1-1/2 popsicle stick thicknesses of air gap. [attachment=366,730] The belt has 1" of free play and I smell no rubber burning. Note: Blob in center of primary is RTV gasket sealant, to cover exposed crankcase nut opening that would otherwise allow dirt to enter. Larger blob (left of center) is and RTV "stopper" created to cover the oil snoot arm hole. •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• The first AxleCam video (made in a rush, late one evening to get done) filmed fairly steady (in large part due to the rolled edge on the camera platform), until the camera support loosened (2) jam-nuts. The next attempt will utilize Loctite and careful assembly. The camera angle is fixed and framed to include a rider's left hand, jockey lever, coil (rear and side) clutch release rod, rider's boot heel, back of calf, and clutch pedal. • The FX shifting experience is a parallel to ocean wave surfing: [i.e; using the peak power of the wave (heavy flywheels) to propel a (wheel) rolling mass (surfboard) out of the apex of a "turn" (or slightly banked curve in an uphill road-grade) and both sports using gravity, momentum and "torque" as a fun-ride.] [attachment=366,731] Plumber on "Art and the Zen of Motorcycle Maintenance" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=164#post-365 Thu, 09 Feb 2012 15:59:41 +0000 Plumber 365@http://vintagetwin.com/ Inline construction is a lot like life. If you make the wrong move at the beginning, you'll have to remove everything and correct the problem, then re-assemble the construction as good or better than the first attempt. • Karma - Everything to do with the *theory of relativity, and that what goes around continues to circle back. There's about 23 personalities in this world. You'll cross paths with the same (personalities) people over and over. *The special theory of relativity and the general theory of relativity are connected. As stated, special theory of relativity applies to all inertial physical phenomena except gravity. The general theory provides the law of gravitation, and its relation to other forces of nature. • In some circles, even the thought of doing something wrong is the same as committing the act. • Karma can be "banked to the brim", which fuels "make your own luck". • Yoga - This isn't exactly the same as karma, but it is to your physical well being. Yoga is a series of * muscle stretches. You don't need to sit with your legs crossed. Nobody does that. Sit with your back straight, like there was a string attached to the top of your head and someone keeping tension on the line, while you sit comfortably straight and think about nothing - only listening to the background sounds around you. When your heart rate lowers and you begin to drift into a mental state of "nothingness", that's mediating. * Some yoga moves are dangerous if you're stupid. Twice in my life, I've gone "over the top" and executed "the lion" where you try and contract your stomach, to the extent that your spine shows. The muscles in the abdomen will be strained and the next day exhibit the same pain attacks as appendicitis. Don't try the Lion or any radical yoga moves. Simple stretches are all that's necessary (since it's the stretching that releases opiate-like endorphins). ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• • Never randomly pick up a tool and start working on your bike. Always prepare yourself mentally with a start and finish expectation, and all the tools you'll need available, or there's a likely chance you'll make a mistake. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• • Thc (cannabis) inhaled, goes directly to the brain. • Alcohol ingested goes directly to the liver to be processed. The liver that was sitting idle before being poisoned by a drink(s) of alcohol, but manages to send the processed poison on to the brain, where it immediately kills thousands of healthy brain cells on contact. "Aw, ya' got millions of brain cells", rebukes the alcohol shareholders. But, today everyone knows that a million or millions aren't that many. So, the while the liver repairs itself (usually 3 days, for complete recovery), it usually gets another alcohol dunk over the weekend. Where this all shows up is later on, after 60 years of age, the mind is numbed-out. The numb-ee thinks he or she still has the sharp focus (then the blowharding begins, i.e; "I was good once, did this and that, in the past... etc." and the willingness to be "wrong" gets brittle and useless.... and doll-face, it's a downward spiral. Since time moves on, you can NEVER get it back. The best you can do is try and tread water, but tied to alcohol your "done". Plumber on "Iron Maiden • KnuckleGlide" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=27#post-364 Wed, 08 Feb 2012 23:41:42 +0000 Plumber 364@http://vintagetwin.com/ Ok, now that the '57 Pan is problem-free, it's time to pick up on the knuckle. Plugging the crankcase and finding a belt primary drive. I've used Primo before. Fine clutch, but I might try a BDL this time, an 1-1/2 x 11 mm like the Pan. ••••••••••••••••••••••••• • The frame cradle hangs lower on a knuckle. Buckhorn bars reach back - and it puts the riding position more like a Twin Cam cut-down than a rigid Panhead, because sitting in the saddle, you're looking up at the headlight, like a springer Cycle-Ray. • There needs to be an anchor boss created for a damper pin. The only logical way to accomplish such a feat (that's reversible!) is with the much relied on for generations, motorcycle's all time favorite equalizer .... J-B Weld® • The parkerized '36-57 transmission plates from V-Twin® are made 0.006" to narrow within the width of the small boxes, that provide rails for the transmission to slide in, without wobbling. The plates are hardened, there's no easy remedy to make the plates workable. Shown is an OEM plate. The chrome plates from V-Twin might be good, but you'd have to gamble an order to find out. • It's worth the effort to put a piece of tape here, so the paint doesn't get remove on the lower fender. • A good idea to wrap tape flags around the bare wire on both cables while the build's going on. [attachment=364,718] [attachment=364,719] [attachment=364,720] [attachment=364,721] [attachment=364,722] [attachment=364,723] Plumber on "Perfecting the 1957 OHV V-Twin® Replica Panhead" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=151#post-363 Wed, 08 Feb 2012 23:35:51 +0000 Plumber 363@http://vintagetwin.com/ It was the loose-fitting eccentric screw that was allowing the points to close up to 0.018" from the original setting of 0.022". My motor won't run at 0.018". I tightened the eccentric screw by sticking a rounded nail punch into the 1/16" hollow of the rivet, supported the brass slot head on the edge of a vise jaw and struck the rivet (tested the turning with a screwdriver), and again until the head became stiff to turn. Note: Shown is a V-Twin timer housing with machine-made peens on their rivet ends. The V-Twin eccentric screw is very stiff to turn, which is correct. Set the points at 0.022" and the motor started on the first kick and ran for the 25 miles. Stopped the bike. Waited 2 minutes. Kicked it though once. Turned the key ON and the motor started - first charged kick. :) I chased a lot of dead end leads to wind-up back at the eccentric screw. With the points held in position only by the single 8/32 set screw, it wasn't enough (even with the oversize washers stacked) to hold the points at 0.022". Read and heed ...... or suffer. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• The '57 V-Twin Pan is running stable now, so all my attention can be focused on the 1946-54 Iron Maiden (knuckle-glide). [attachment=363,715] [attachment=363,716] [attachment=363,717] Plumber on "Perfecting the 1957 OHV V-Twin® Replica Panhead" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=151#post-362 Tue, 07 Feb 2012 21:53:29 +0000 Plumber 362@http://vintagetwin.com/ The problem with the motor is the points and/or OEM timer base face. Either the timer face and points are slipping (because of the polished base meeting an non-flat timer base?), but it's happening. When I set the points at 0.022" the motor runs for less than a minute fine, and then shuts off. I checked the points and they continually reduce their gap to 0.018" which is one thousandths to little to fire the motor. Stett sets his at 0.019", I set mine at 0.022" to compensate for fiber wear and the top points tiny drop. ••••••••••••••••••••• Put some divots on the bottom of the base plate with a snap-punch and created a thicker and larger diameter washer and thicker to spread the pressure. I'll kick the motor over tomorrow and see if that was the source of the problem. It all adds up..... the motor running perfect and then the points closing to 0.018" and not running.... like it was a negative grounding problem or loose connection. Closed points would generate the same symptoms. • Make sure the base is completely pushed down around the post. • Using a thick washer necessitated cutting an 8-32 x 1" stainless screw down to 1/2". A Phillips head instead of a slot. Postscript: The dimpling of the base did nothing to impede it's closing-pattern. Only tightening the eccentric screw cured the problem immediately. [attachment=362,711] [attachment=362,712] [attachment=362,713] [attachment=362,714] Plumber on "Perfecting the 1957 OHV V-Twin® Replica Panhead" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=151#post-361 Tue, 07 Feb 2012 16:54:36 +0000 Plumber 361@http://vintagetwin.com/ When the primary belt starts drifting towards the inner primary wall, then loosen all (5) trans. nuts and support bolt. Remove the rear brake clevis pin at the drum arm. Remove the derby cover. Loosen the right side trans. adjusting screw (clockwise turning about 1/4 of a turn). Then you can pull the transmission back on the left side by pulling on the clutch. Tighten the front and back 5/8 trans. nuts on the left side, then tighten the nuts on the right side. Tighten the 9/16 5th mount bolt. Re-adjust the rear chain and the transmission release arm rod so that there's only 1/8" free play in the release lever. An 1/8" free-play at the release arm translates to a smooth take-off using the rocker clutch. Too much slack in the clutch pedal release will cause the clutch to "dump" and create an erratic 1st gear release. Note: Having more than 1/8" free-play in the rod adjustment causes dumping, and with that adjustment, the rear tire will patch-rubber (chirp) when the clutch is released, even in third gear. [attachment=361,710] Plumber on "Perfecting the 1957 OHV V-Twin® Replica Panhead" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=151#post-360 Tue, 07 Feb 2012 00:12:38 +0000 Plumber 360@http://vintagetwin.com/ I got a chance to start looking for the cause of the motor dying at will and found that my battery negative cable was only snug tight (must have been one of those times when I was called to dinner, right when I was tightening the negative ground-to-frame screw/nut, and wandered-off .... called away. The primary belt needs to be pulled back on the left side a tiny-bit to get the belt away from the inside of the inner primary. If the motor stalls again, then I'm back at square one. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• At square one. Same situation. Motor will run and then stop. Still looking. Here's a tip to help keep the points set. A large washer under the set-screw provides more pressure in a larger area, that keeps the points base flat and in a fixed position. •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• And a couple pics of the front header clamps and their positioning. [attachment=360,707] [attachment=360,708] [attachment=360,709] Plumber on "Brass Tub Drain & Overflow Re-alignment" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=163#post-359 Sat, 04 Feb 2012 16:41:07 +0000 Plumber 359@http://vintagetwin.com/ The assembly tightens in this order: 1. The top surface of the (drain) shoe is milled at a 1/8" per foot drop. That sets the foundation of the assembly. The bottom of the tub surface at the drain is milled flat. The drain is trial fitted with it's thick rubber washer, and drain tailpiece aligned evenly with the drain body hub. 2. The compression nut of the shoe is tightened semi-snugly after the drain body has been moved up or down for alignment with the shoe, by allowing the fixed tailpiece of the body to move within the P-trap below, (where the tail piece nut fastens into the body). 3. The drain body's top (chrome) nut is then fully tightened and the drop of 1/8" is set. Then the drain shoes tailpiece nut is tightened. Now the drain and body are in alignment with the m.i.p. (male international pipe thread, 11-pitch threads) adapter rising up from the ground, with a 1/8" per foot drop in the drain, which means the drain's shoe will completely empty. Note: Teflon tape was wrapped, full width, clockwise around the threads of the ABS m.i.p. adapter. Then Key-Tite® pipe dope is also painted over the teflon tape. The the compression nut is installed and tightened. Then the joint is wiped clean of excess dope in a clockwise motion, so as to not unravel the wrapped tape. 4. Then the overflow tube is installed, in this case sliced, bent, and soldered. Again, the key to no leaks is exhibited by each compression nut being able to be hand tightened with no trace of bind. The last nut to be tightened is the (drain body) tailpiece (middle) nut to the overflow tube. [attachment=359,703] [attachment=359,704] [attachment=359,705] [attachment=359,706] Plumber on "Brass Tub Drain & Overflow Re-alignment" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=163#post-358 Fri, 03 Feb 2012 02:30:28 +0000 Plumber 358@http://vintagetwin.com/ This cast iron tub was installed 1/2" off-plumb by the original "hacksaw plumbers" in 1968. In order to correct the off-set, a cut was made with an 1/8" thick diamond *hacksaw blade, slightly more than 2/3 the way through. The kerf (cut) was made and the tube folded-over, pinned in place by an inserted 1-1/4" wooded dowel, and leveraged against the overflow tube, and kept the kerf tapered-closed, while in a brass-jawed vise - then soldered with lead-free solder (95/5), after the burrs, in and around the the slot, interior and exterior, were triangular-filed and sanded. A succession of "heat and wipe's" of solder applications (wearing a 100% cotton glove) and water-mist spray-bottle cool-downs to build-up the gap, made do-able because there were wraps of  wet-cloth rope (i.e; a t-shirt's bottom hem strip) about 2" ahead of each side of the kerf to keep it cool, except for the solder-fill kerf area which stayed hot. (The wet-wraps were placed where the tube is shown un-sanded.) It's smooth inside, because the interior wall of the tube was not sanded or fluxed, hence no solder stuck to the interior walls. [attachment=358,700] [attachment=358,701] [attachment=358,702]The object is to have the drain shoe compression nut and overflow body nut installed tightly and snug (respectively), and with the final nut for the overflow tail piece (middle nut) able to be turned to hand-tight with no trace of thread-bind. ~ No leaks allowed at all. Leaks will attract subterranean termites.~ * This is the one and only time that a hacksaw blade is allowed to touch either brass or copper, because it's a slice, not a full cut. Use only a tubing cutter (wheel) for spigot to hub full end-contact. • Even though the overflow tailpiece is sitting cocked in the top of the drain body, the compression nut was hand-tightened with no trace of bind. This exhibit illustrates the maximum that tube ends can be out of plumb using a compression fitting arrangement and not leak. The tapered seal washer still maintains an even margin seating-imprint while fitted into the ground-hub body. Plumber on "2012 Knuckle Crankcases from Germany" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=162#post-357 Mon, 30 Jan 2012 16:16:24 +0000 Plumber 357@http://vintagetwin.com/ No one in America could have possibly made cases like these without adding their own "corporate" changes to the original design. Only foreigners truly understand the early Harley-Davidson OHV Big Twins. See for yourself: <a href="http://www.harleymotoren.de/" rel="nofollow">http://www.harleymotoren.de/</a> and....... <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Davidson-Knucklehead-engine-cases-OEM-Type-Like-original-/120851397906?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D5%26pmod%3D190613011099%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5965382627158981741" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Davidson-Knucklehead-engine-cases-OEM-Type-Like-original-/120851397906?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D5%26pmod%3D190613011099%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5965382627158981741</a> Plumber on "Perfecting the 1957 OHV V-Twin® Replica Panhead" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=151#post-356 Sun, 29 Jan 2012 03:17:58 +0000 Plumber 356@http://vintagetwin.com/ The prongs need to be pre-bent at the base. Stiff prongs, you'll jab a screwdriver through your hand trying to bend them otherwise. Even though all the fingers are folded-over, the lens will still rattle and needs a coat of something on top of them to freeze the lens in place. Liquid Tape® was used, since there was some on the shelf. Place the cover sitting even on a glove to keep the lens close to the dash while the glue is drying. The current lens have a wider bezel than an earlier repop version. The prongs are also stronger material. [attachment=356,696] [attachment=356,698] [attachment=356,699]Note: The lens colors that shipped with this dash were (2) reds and a blue! Plumber on "Early Cut-Downs" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=161#post-355 Sat, 28 Jan 2012 14:57:12 +0000 Plumber 355@http://vintagetwin.com/ "... just posted on the Sportster forum". - pinionGear • <a href="http://thp.yuku.com/topic/5610/Some-very-nice-old-iron#.TyQKDEqk1aW" rel="nofollow">http://thp.yuku.com/topic/5610/Some-very-nice-old-iron#.TyQKDEqk1aW</a> • Might take a moment to load. Worth the wait. Put together with the Boozefighters '46 twin-knuckle topic & pics, will shrink the M/C world for some. • Photo #20 Lance Tidwell, Calif. (left) Chuck Wesholski (right) Plumber on "Last Henderson Tank Pictures Thursday, January 26, 2012 5:49 PM • John Pierce" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=160#post-354 Fri, 27 Jan 2012 03:38:53 +0000 Plumber 354@http://vintagetwin.com/ <img src="http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/3661/hendersongastanktop.jpg" /><img src="http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/2860/hendersonnewtopandnewoi.jpg" /><img src="http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/9498/hendersonoiltankinstall.jpg" /><img src="http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/2308/hendersonoiltank.jpg" /><img src="http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/7203/hendersontankfinishedle.jpg" /><img src="http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/6176/hendersontankfinishedri.jpg" /><img src="http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/1493/hendersontankinframe.jpg" /><img src="http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/2916/hendersontankjigged2.jpg" /><img src="http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/7766/hendersontankjigged.jpg" /> Ever wonder what the inside of a 1915 Model "E"  Henderson tank looks like on the inside?  This one looked pretty good but under 1 lb of pressure stated leaking in a lot of places. The owner is a perfectionist and preferred not to rely on sealer. We took it apart, made a new oil tank which doubles as the tank baffle  made a new top and bottom, re-soldered and in the end  we did put a sealer in to protect it.  The steel is not real thick., and the owner wants to ride it a bit. Originally his plan was  to use the machine as a display.  it will be Cannonball worthy. Thus far we have found almost all original parts. My buddy Steve had started this for the owner, he's absent from the job, at least in person, we will finish it. I'm fortunate to have several very good men helping.  As time permits I'll send other pics.  The frame , forks , and handlebars were  badly  twisted,  probably went over a wall 80 or so years ago, sheet metal is not too bad. Rims are being made , and I mean literally being made . J.P. Plumber on "LInkert M-74B • Re-Manufactured by Cotten" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=140#post-353 Mon, 23 Jan 2012 17:31:24 +0000 Plumber 353@http://vintagetwin.com/ [attachment=353,689]"Attached is a pic showing it on the hone, with torque-plate handles. It took the whole .010" over size to clean up 90+%. Perhaps they can be taken further, but I do not wish to explore the effect upon flow at the idle bleed holes." - Cotten [attachment=353,690] ••••••••••••••••••• (bottom) BEFORE I've ordered two additional Durable floats, hex (barrel) float nuts, and screws.  [attachment=353,732] (very bottom) AFTER Plumber on "Boozefighters '46 • C.B. Clausen • Jim Hunter • Chuck Wesholski • Knuk Motor x 2" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=159#post-351 Sun, 22 Jan 2012 23:33:31 +0000 Plumber 351@http://vintagetwin.com/ <img src="http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/8928/ks1wt.jpg" /><img src="http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/5887/ks2q.jpg" /><img src="http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/7355/ks3k.jpg" /><img src="http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/4622/ks4a.jpg" /><img src="http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/3736/ks5o.jpg" /><img src="http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/3370/ks6u.jpg" /><img src="http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/6577/ks7bs.jpg" /><img src="http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/4186/ks9li.jpg" /><img src="http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/4130/ks11c.jpg" /><img src="http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/5172/ks10q.jpg" /><img src="http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/9518/ks120002.jpg" /><img src="http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/9060/ks13.jpg" /><img src="http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/1604/ks14.jpg" /><img src="http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/872/ks15j.jpg" /><img src="http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/9576/ks16v.jpg" /><img src="http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/1931/ks17.jpg" /><img src="http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/5722/ks18.jpg" /> The topic "header" is taken from margin notes made during a conversation, about the 18 photos of people and precision-crafted machines from the past -  fully illustrating the twin 90" knuckle motors built by C.B. Clausen (Southgate & Florence, CA), then installed in this class "0"  tube-frame constructed by Bill Burk, for a re-run speed of 224 mph, when a broke a piston at 151 mph on it's second attempt at the flats" - Chuck Wesholski The descriptions below were handwritten on back of some of the numbered pics, but since the interview was from years back, some of the facts may need to be substantiated by those actually involved.   1. & 2. In 1958, Jim Hunter's 90" knuckles clocked 224 mph. The C.B Clausen knuckle motor was driven by the frame builder Bill Burk. 3. & 4. Motor (40EL) built by C.B Clausen. Owned by M/C Supply.   5. Tom Faber, Chuck Wesholski.   6. "... and took a truck to push-start it... there was so much compression the thing would bounce around on all four wheels...until both motor's cylinders started firing..." -  Chuck Wesholski {Van Husen scissor-cut, short sleeve shirt going there. Engineer gloves...}   7. "...more than thrilling...".   9. Riley carburetors. 10. So clean - and appreciated by the progression of owners is the story. 11. Gas tank & VL pump. 13. New owner - out for some exercise. 16. VL 17. "The building was being torn down. We just went by to see it go into history. The dealership (1934) was also a baby carriage and bicycle outlet that sold velocipedes!" - C.W. {Among the early velocipedes there were designs with one, two, three and four wheels. Some two-wheeled designs had pedals mounted on the front wheel, while three- and four-wheeled designs sometimes used <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Treadles" title="Treadles" class="mw-redirect">treadles</a> and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lever" title="Lever">levers</a> to drive the rear wheels.} Plumber on "V-Twin '49 Front Fender Tip" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=157#post-349 Sun, 22 Jan 2012 05:22:30 +0000 Plumber 349@http://vintagetwin.com/ <a href="http://www.caimag.com/forum/showthread.php?6640-Perfecting-the-1957-OHV-VT-Replica/page3" rel="nofollow">http://www.caimag.com/forum/showthread.php?6640-Perfecting-the-1957-OHV-VT-Replica/page3</a> and continues here: <a href="http://www.caimag.com/forum/showthread.php?6640-Perfecting-the-1957-OHV-VT-Replica/page4" rel="nofollow">http://www.caimag.com/forum/showthread.php?6640-Perfecting-the-1957-OHV-VT-Replica/page4</a> ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Custom bend the side-ends or kill your paint. [attachment=349,686] Plumber on "Fascia- Rafter Repair • Asphalt Repair • Swale build. • Ice Plant Erosion Plan" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=111#post-348 Sat, 21 Jan 2012 17:35:32 +0000 Plumber 348@http://vintagetwin.com/ A quick way to install an ice-plant erosion resistant slope is to fasten burlap over the substrate using sticks (right). The ice plant will break off cleanly (see nodes in close-up). Then cut 3-4" slices in the burlap, of a staggered arrangement, so ice plant sections of 4" length can be stuck through the slits and will be anchored. Fertilize the implant pieces of ice plant with 1 tblspn. of Miracle Grow® crystals, dissolved in a one-gallon watering can. Note: The slope to the left wasn't protected by burlap. Don't let this happen to you. Over that lay long sections of healthy ice plant (pickle weed) with the stalk nodes lain flat atop the burlap. The nodes will send out shoots. Water-down the finished installation. Alternate daily watering, and once weekly applications of Miracle Grow®, will establish the ice plant within 2 weeks of sunshine and cover within 30 days, but will begin erosion protection immediately. [attachment=348,676] [attachment=348,677] [attachment=348,678] [attachment=348,679] [attachment=348,680] [attachment=348,681] [attachment=348,682] Plumber on "Battery Tender® Plus! • 6V • 10 yr. Warranty" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=156#post-347 Sat, 21 Jan 2012 03:26:14 +0000 Plumber 347@http://vintagetwin.com/ <img src="http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/1584/bat9.jpg" /><img src="http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/6334/bat80001.jpg" />An update to the Battery Tender info covered in Vol. 1. These are the new features that make it happen. 1. The pics are representative of (top) red light ON when charging. 2. Then, the red light is still on, but the green light also flashes every 5-10 seconds. At this point, if necessary, the battery can be removed from the charger and put into service, but BT® recommends that the battery continuing charging until the red light is OFF and the only the Green light remaining ON. (Note: Check the 6V battery electrolyte levels if the BT® remains attached to the battery on a continual "storage" charge for long periods of time.) [attachment=347,684] [attachment=347,685] Plumber on "Perfecting the 1957 OHV V-Twin® Replica Panhead" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=151#post-346 Thu, 19 Jan 2012 22:04:09 +0000 Plumber 346@http://vintagetwin.com/ Once again viewed live by the axleCam! (action footage to be posted U-tube), the Pan suddenly stops running and chugs to a stop at the curb. Died spark-less, for no known reason, to an otherwise healthy Panhead. However, this time the evening was dusk-enough that I could see all my of dash lights had gone out. Points had not closed. There was no visual spark from the points (but that's no real visual test), and it was too getting too dark to see, but to trailer-it. Stett told me that if there's no spark, that's good!, because you'll have a place to start searching from - "Check the spark to the plugs first by kicking the motor over. If none?, then patch-cord around the existing coil on the bike. The known-good coil doesn't need to be grounded, just disconnect the existing leads going to the coil, and then hook a long patch-lead to the respective terminals. Usually the rear terminal is wired coming from the battery.  Attach another long lead to the front terminal of the coil (going to the points). Kick the motor over to see if you get a fat yellow spark across the plugs (I have a plug tester with a hooded electrode to use, pic later). If you get no spark across the plugs by trying the known good coil, then start looking for a ground wire that isn't (grounded). 99% of all electrical (spooks) problems are ground wire ( or ground) related. In the...lets' see... going on 50 yrs. that I've been involved with working on motorcycles, I've seen only about 2 or 3 coils that have gone bad." - Stett ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• The plugs fire a blue spark, the coil is good, so I need to look at every wiring connection on the bike. •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• A Coil Test is mentioned on page 5F -2 of the '59-69 OE manual, upper right: "Disengage spark plug cable and insert metal rod or nail.... arrange so the object is 1/4" away from the cyln. head....break the points by hand. See if a "hot" or blue spark is obtained. If not, it is an indication of a weak coil, dead battery, broken or loose wires, etc. Arcing of the point and hard starting indicate a weak condenser." Plumber on "Axle-Cam • Asphalt Surfing w/ an FX (forward) Shifter Cam" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=149#post-345 Wed, 18 Jan 2012 03:48:17 +0000 Plumber 345@http://vintagetwin.com/ There's gobs of torque riding this machine - enough that one could easily ride over their head and crash. •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• The test run came out OK, except once again (as the video chugs to a stop) the motor died, for no reason, to an otherwise healthy Panhead. However this time, the evening was dusk enough I could see all my dash lights had gone out. Points had not closed. There was no visual spark from the points (but that's no real visual test), and it was too getting too dark to see. Stett told me that if there's no spark, that's good!, because you have a place to start from. "Check to spark to the plugs first by kick the motor over. If none, then patch-cord around the existing coil on the bike. The known-good coil doesn't need to be grounded, just disconnect the existing leads going to the coil, and then hook a long patch-lead to the respective terminals. Usually the rear terminal is juice from the battery.  another long lead to the front terminal of the coil (going to the points). Kick the motor over to see if you get a blue or yellow spark across the plugs (I have a plug tester with a hooded electrode to use). Note: Briggs & Stratton report that any spark from the coil, blue or yellow, is acceptable. If you get no spark across the plugs by trying the known good coil, then start looking for a ground wire that isn't (grounded). 99% of all electrical (spooks) problems are ground wire (ground) related. In the...lets' see... going on 50 yrs. that I've been involved with working on motorcycles, I've seen only about 2 or 3 coils that have gone bad." ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••  I sent the 8mm video tape to Ricardo (7th grader - because they know how) to change it into something U-Tube-able and mail a CD back to me as such. He said I would be able to post it here. We'll see how that goes. Plumber on "Oil Tank Sump Pump For Dripless Oil Changes" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=155#post-344 Tue, 17 Jan 2012 05:53:14 +0000 Plumber 344@http://vintagetwin.com/ <a href="http://www.caimag.com/forum/showthread.php?8555-Oil-Tank-Sump-Pump-Dripless-Oil-Changes" rel="nofollow">http://www.caimag.com/forum/showthread.php?8555-Oil-Tank-Sump-Pump-Dripless-Oil-Changes</a> •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Works. Plumber on "Tightening Panhead Tappet Guide Screws" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=154#post-343 Tue, 17 Jan 2012 05:12:08 +0000 Plumber 343@http://vintagetwin.com/ <a href="http://www.caimag.com/forum/showthread.php?8548-Tightening-Panhead-Tappet-Guides" rel="nofollow">http://www.caimag.com/forum/showthread.php?8548-Tightening-Panhead-Tappet-Guides</a> Plumber on "STA-BIL® Fuel-Preserver & Magnetic Cup" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=153#post-342 Tue, 17 Jan 2012 03:33:10 +0000 Plumber 342@http://vintagetwin.com/ If you keep 5 gals. of ethyl, then this is a wise choice. $6.50, treats 1 oz. per 2-1/2 gal. of fuel. NAPA # 22208 [attachment=342,671] [attachment=342,672] Mag-Cups $2.49 (buy 3) NAPA # W9155. NAPA's Performance brand makes several unique shop tools. Plumber on "Perfecting the 1957 OHV V-Twin® Replica Panhead" http://vintagetwin.com/topic.php?id=151#post-341 Mon, 16 Jan 2012 20:59:03 +0000 Plumber 341@http://vintagetwin.com/ <a href="http://www.caimag.com/forum/showthread.php?6640-Perfecting-the-1957-OHV-VT-Replica/page2" rel="nofollow">http://www.caimag.com/forum/showthread.php?6640-Perfecting-the-1957-OHV-VT-Replica/page2</a> •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Re-visiting the dash cover is continued with examples of the current V-Twin 3-lite cover, purchased raw and chrome on the black pan, and an example of the "test" 2-lite dash, with which everything fit fine, except the eclipse of the shut-off reserve stamped circle. The V-Twin, 1947 style-cover, with it's speedo-bulb & jockey shift neutral lamp socket holder is blanketing two needs under one cover. I'm sure the blooped-out shape was corrected and we hope the top edge made rounded, because it's to sharp of a transition, as shown. [attachment=341,667] [attachment=341,668] [attachment=341,669] [attachment=341,670]Note: The V-Twin tank strips are cut to a perfect length, that reaches from the very end of the cover's forward edges as shown installed on the "test" cover. Nice.